THE
ROMAN BRIDGE OVER THE MOSEL RIVER
I could not love a woman as much as I love Trier and my
heart is heavy with sadness, for Covid 19 has come between us, but safe in my
mind are the sweet memories of our last meeting.
My focus of writing this
article is hopefully to encourage any readers to share with me the origin of
Trier as it begins to reveal its self to archaeologists and to the historians
of antiquity, and be seduced enough to want to visit this delightful German
city.
THE PEOPLE OF THE DISTANT PAST INCLUDING THE TREVERI
In the many
centuries before the birth of Christ most of Western Europe was inhabited by
numerous and diverse pagan tribes. Perhaps some of the larger tribes would have
a Royal house including a king. A tribes boundaries would have been defined by
the lay of the land, which may have included hills, river valleys and a forest,
while in other parts the boundaries would fluctuate. Tribal warfare appears to have been a regular
feature of their societies. They fought for political control, economic
advantage and to conquer territory. Their internal wars prevented the
unification of Gaul as did other migrating tribes like the Helvetii, which
would have created more pressure on their valued land.
Between 58 BC and 50 BC Julius Caesar (B 12 July 100 BC - 17 march 45 BC) was responsible for the expansion of the then Roman Republic
through what is now France and parts of Belgium and by conquering Gaul it
allowed Rome to secure the natural border of the river Rhine. This was
completed when he defeated Vercingetorix at the battle of Alesia in 52 B C.
We first hear
of the Treveri tribe during Caesar’s campaigns in Gaul as he was astutely aware
of their close relationships with some of the tribes across the Rhine, and with
their Belgic neighbours to the north-west. Caesar enlightens us that the
Treveri inhabited the land between the rivers Meuse and the Rhine, which would
have been the middle and lower Mosel valley, and the low mountain ranges Eifel
and Hunsruck, plus the now Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, and part of the
Luxembourg province of Belgium. Caesar also informs us that this tribe had a
reputation for fine horsemanship and it transpires that they seemingly had
their own cavalry units. Although their cavalry were unreliable and
unpredictable regarding their loyalty and had fought for and against Caesar.
This was high-lighted in 57 BC when a unit of their cavalry fighting on behalf
of Caesar were set against their Belgic neighbours. Then, in the face of a
possible defeat, the Treveri deserted.
Caesar viewed
the Treveri as a pretentious and a disruptive influence and being aware that
their aristocratic leader Inoutiomarus who (died 53 BC) was anti Roman,
Caesar promoted Inoutiomarus Son-in Law
Cingetorix, who was pro Roman, as the head of the Treveri. Unperturbed Inoutiomarus now confiscates his
Son-in-Law’s property and Caesar is forced into marching into Treveran
territory with four legions and some cavalry. Unfortunately that year had seen
a poor harvest which seemingly meant that the Roman army had to be split up
into smaller units than usual, for they depended on the pro Roman tribes for
their winter grain, but this also made them more vulnerable if attacked.
Titus
Labienus, (B 100 B C--D 45 B C at Munda when he opposed Caesar during the
final battle of the Roman Civil War) was Caesar’s Senior Legate and second -in
–command. He was a skilled cavalry commander and was sent with just one legion,
which was about three thousand men, to the frontier between the pro Roman Remi
tribe and the Treveri. We are told that when the Roman camp was located it was
besieged by the Treveri, and Indutiomarus is consequently killed during a
skirmish with the Roman soldiers. But the Treveri now under the command of
Indutiomarus relatives continued the revolt. History is disclosed to us that
Labienus was saved from attack by the reinforcement of two legions dispatched to
him by Caesar. Now, a confident Labienus leaves his camp with his legions, and
on finding ground to his liking he engages and defeats the Treveri.
Cingetorix
was now inaugurated as a “client” king, and his tribe take no part in the
rebellion of Vercinetorix. However in 51 B C this tribe revolt again. Perhaps
Cingetorix had died, and this was put down by Labienus.
Caesar, was
acutely aware that this aggressive tribe, with their northern neighbours and
friends across the Rhine could once again revolt so he chose to keep this army
close by. For added security Caesar appointed Cummius to rule over the Morini,
a Belgic coastal tribe in the modern Pas de Calais region.
Perhaps then,
as suggested by archaeology and historians from the past, the Treveri were a
people of mixed origins, who had within their history adopted a Celtic language
and became unified and recognizable to Caesar as a distinct tribe.
THE WARRIOR KING COMMIUS
Commius was a
true tribal warrior of his time, for he could be fiercely loyal, filled with a
heartfelt and powerful intensity, although, history reveals to us that his
loyalty wavered from being an ally of Caesar, to occasionally becoming his
enemy.
In essence
Commius was then king of the Atrebates, one of a large confederation of tribes
known as the Belgae. They occupied Northern Gaul between the English Channel,
the west-bank of the river Rhine and the northern bank of the river Seine.
Seemingly before Caesar’s expedition to Britain in 55 B C Commius was sent
ahead to the British tribes as his envoy, and then during Caesar’s second
expedition to Britain in 54 B C, Commius we are told, negotiated the surrender
of the warrior king Cassivellauns who led an alliance of tribes against Caesar.
But then
during the winter of 53 B C the tangled web of politics surfaced once again.
Labienus believing that Commius was the architect of a pending conspiracy with
other Gaulish tribes plotted to assassinate him. The Roman Tribune Gaius
Volusenus Quadratus and a number of Centurions lured Commius to a meeting but
the assassination attempt failed. As Commius recovered from a severe head wound
he never again associated with the Romans.
Consequently
Commius and his Atrebates tribe fought against Caesar at Alesia, but with this
battle lost he returned to England around 51B C. By 30 B C he seems to have
established himself at Calleva Atrebatum, now recognized as Silchester. And
from here, now being king of the Atrebates in Britain, he issued coins bearing
his name.
Intriguingly
in June 2008 and just 6 miles from Chichester at North Bersted an ancient
burial was discovered and excavated. It was the grave of a mystery warrior and
is now known as the North Bersted Man and his skeletal remains were radiocarbon
dated between 194 -59 B C. I was secretly tantalised that this may have been
the grave of Commius but there was not enough left of his cranium to pinpoint a
healed head wound due to the acidic soil.
His skeletal
remains and grave goods are now at the Novium museum in Chichester and can be
viewed on the internet by searching for the North Bersted Man.
THE
EXPANDING INFLUENCE OF THE TREVERI
The geographical environment would have had a major influence on
settlement as would the River Mosel/Moselle. This river drains the central and
eastern area and being navigable was an important means of transport and
communication, as were the prehistoric land routes and established
thoroughfares.
The soil that covers the slaty rocks is mainly of poor quality and lacks
depth, while over the high ground forest is the natural covering. The breeding
of livestock and hunting were seemingly more important and worthwhile than
agriculture. For some time the ruling elite of the Treveri had been
establishing a tapestry of development and had begun to embroider it within
their numerous settlements which had grown within their tribal boundaries. Between
Birkenfeld and Saarbrucken the now exhausted mineral deposits including iron
and copper would have generated immense income for their economy.
TITELBERG
FOUNDATIONS (WIKIPEDIA)
Titelberg now
in present day Luxembourg, was possibly one of the main settlements of the pre
–Roman Treveri tribe, and was possibly regarded as an oppidum, a major tribal
centre. It was fortified and set in about 125 acres and within it was an area
rich in iron-ore deposits. No doubt there were other important settlements/
hill forts. Some were controlled by aristocratic landowners and others perhaps
were under the influence of local tribal leaders.
A mixture of
people over many years conceivably developed into what is now known as the
Treveri tribe, for numerous Celtic tribes were migrating great distances. And,
it also seems that the Treveri spoke using a Celtic dialect.
The Treveri had developed a sophisticated
economy and like multiple other tribes, were minting gold coins prior to the
arrival of Caesar. The Treveran gold coins were identified by their distinctive
pictorial markings. The coins on one side showed an eye seen sideways on, while
on the reverse was a disjointed horse and a wheel. The wandering archaeologists
cast an ocean of light upon the designs that were on the bronze coins. On one
side was the bust of the goddess Venus and on the reverse, there may have been
a flower, a bull or even a boar.
TRIBAL
RELIGION
The religious practices of the local
tribes is floating, and in all probability been lost in the gathering mists of
time,… although for us geologists have produced the answers to the mysteries of
the landscape while the indigenous inhabitants relied on their own
interpretation, that certain Gods or spirits were responsible. They, therefore
had an obligation to pay homage and to respect the continuing gifts from mother
earth.
Numerous deities roamed the land and
depending on the local natural physical environment, like oak-groves, lakes and
fresh water springs, would have characterized which deities would have been
revered. The worship was probably conducted by tribal elders using story-
telling, verse and song. All of which would have been handed down through the
generations by word of mouth.
After the Roman conquest many of their
deities were seemingly associated with Roman equivalents and some were even
coupled with the Roman gods and goddesses. A beacon of enlightenment was
unveiled for us by the work of archaeologists of the past at the Irminenwingert
Temple District on the western bank of the river Moselle near Trier. During the
removal of much earth to make way for the building of some barracks numerous
stone monuments were discovered. Inscribed artefacts suggest that it was the central
sanctuary of the Treveri. It was pre- Roman and seemingly used until the time
of the Roman emperor Gratian. Part of this sanctuary was dedicated to the Gods
Lenus and Mars. Lenus was revered by the Treveri as a healing god, while Mars
was the Roman god of war, and the protector of the tribe during battle.
Although the Treveri showed reverence
to multiple deities, a few were more distinctive and perhaps even unique to
their trible elders. Apparently, as suggested by others, the following deities
of Inicona and Veraudunus, the Xultigiae, Ritona, and Intarabus could relate to
earlier Celtic beliefs and customs.
The arrival of Christianity was
seemingly a destabilizing influence for what is now perceived as Paganism, for
during the reign of Gratian, who died aged 24 in 383AD, the then Emperor of
this Western part of the Roman Empire, much damage was sustained in the
Altbachtal ancient holy district within Trier.
In the valley basin of the Altbach
below the Trier Amphitheatre excavations were carried out between 1926 and 1934
by Siegfried Loeschcke. Within an area of 5 hectares and to a depth of 5
meters, at least 70 temples and chapels were recognized as well as a number of
priest houses and a cult theatre. Sadly after the 2nd World war this
region was filled with rubble and levelled, although many of the artefacts
discovered during the excavations of 1926 and 1934 can now be viewed in the
Rheiniches Landesmuseum in Trier.
THE ORIGINS OF ROMAN TRIER AND AN ERA OF PEACE AND EXPANSION
It may be that the higher land from the Petrisberg offered it’s self as a contender for the vicinity of a safe and prosperous settlement. The land descended moderately towards the river Moselle and therefore offered up a flood free site with the bonus of a known river crossing. Also Trier is ideally situated for a fort as it lies on the stretch of the river where routes from the south and west going towards the Rhineland must cross the Moselle.
In 27BC Octavian, the adopted son and heir of Julius Caesar,
arose from the dust and grime of conflict to become the 1st Roman
Emperor, and he assumed the title of Augustus.
In all probability after the colony (of foreign- rule) was
established a civitas, (a politically organized community) began to appear and
this new expanding tribal centre perhaps became known as Augustus Treverorum.
The name Augustus possibly used to show respect for the Roman Emperor, while
Treverorum related to the local inhabitants. Under Augustus, Agrippa, the
emperor’s faithful general, was a progressive Roman, filled with vision and
positive intent. During his two periods of office he stimulated and help to plan
three exceedingly important Roman roads. All went through the lands of the
Treveri which would increase their transregional trade, while for the Roman
army it was of benefit for their military deployment.
The road that started from Lyon was part of the long
distance road network, and from Trier it progressed to Cologne which was the
then capital of the Roman province of Germania inferior. Another came from the
south and connected Metz in France with the now town of Dalheim in south-eastern
Luxembourg and then on to Trier. It then went further to the river Rhine in the
northeast, which was the then border of the Roman Empire. Another road from the
southwest connected Reims in France with Niederanven in Luxembourg and then
progressed to Trier. Interestingly archaeology has revealed to us that there
was a pre-Roman bridge over the Moselle between Stadtbredimus and Palzem. This
bridge would have carried tracks from the south and west bound for Hunsruck
and/or for the area around Trier.
Around 16BC and following the reorganisation of the Roman
provinces, the capital of Belgica was moved from Reims to Augusta Treverorum.
Possibly, many local nobles from the Treveri tribe would have sought positions
of authority and consequently were awarded Roman citizenship.
Tiberius succeeded his stepfather during 14AD and wished to
expand the Roman Empire along the
Danube and modern day Germany. To help finance this he increased the
amount of taxation coming in from Gaul. This only added to other under-laying
issues, triggering a wave of discontent around 21AD.
After the brief reign of Caligula, the next Emperor Claudius
in 41AD, recognized the strategic location of Trier, and consequently there was
a rapid period of development. Claudius was a pioneering builder and he ordered
the construction, not just around Trier, but across his empire, of numerous
aqueducts, canals and roads.
THE GOOD THE BAD AND THE UGLY
By 459 AD Trier had become part
of Charlemagne’s empire and was under the control of a people recognised by
name as the Franks. Although Trier at various times was, as a result of the
Napoleonic war under the control of the French in 1794, but during 1815 it had
become German once again within the Kingdom of Prussia and it has remained part
of the German nation ever since.
On reflection there was a
disconcerting period of unrest during the last decade of the 2nd
century by the usurpation of imperial power by Decimus Clodius Albinus the then
governor of Britain, when he crossed into Gaul with his army late in 196.
Gratifyingly the Rhineland armies including the Treveri stayed loyal to
Septimus Severus, and the threat to stability was averted. In consequence,
perhaps, if you chose the wrong side there would have been some unpleasant
repercussions.
Within Trier’s distance past it
was the capital of the Roman Northern Territories of the Western Roman Empire
for over 400 hundred years, during which it was the residence of eight emperors
of Christianity. It was a key city of the Northern Territories and now it is
the oldest city in Germany and is located in the German state of Rhineland-
Palatinate and it celebrated its 2,000th birthday in 1984.
It seems that around the middle
and later part of the 1st Century AD, the footsteps of urbanization
tiptoed into the northern part of the then town, becoming a residential
district, for the south, probably by now, was an industrial area with
potteries. The eastern perimeter of the street grid was also residential while
to the south east in the valley of the Altbach, which was the sacred precinct,
solid foundations of early stone houses were detected. Also mosaics assembled
with black and white tesserae depicting geometrical patterns, which would have
been the current fashion during the 1st century, were observed below
and beside the basilica.
As the years tumbled away into
oblivion Trier became more accepting to Romanization, for seemingly a new
social structure expressed through architecture eventually began to emerge. Although
it was religion rather than politics, for the population still served their
Gods. Paganism, superstition beliefs, cults of the aristocrats, including the
educated oriental cults, but Christianity with the promise of eternal life
eventually had a strong cultural influence.
THE ROMAN FORUM (NUMBER 8 ON THE MAP)
During the 2nd and 3rd
centuries AD Trier embarked on a development of some monumental public
buildings and perhaps one of Trier’s first was the building of its Forum. This
seems to have been built on a raised bank of earth, which would have made it an
impressive and visual commanding site. Archaeology suggests that the complex
was around 400m long and 150m wide. This building would become the beating
heart of the city and would serve as a centre of administration, justice, business,
and for important public meetings. Perhaps its construction would have been based
on a known Roman Mediterranean design.
Archaeology seems to lead us
towards the thought that there were two rows of shops/store rooms, one row
facing inside the Forum, while the other row was facing to the outside,
possibly to the north and to the south. Perhaps many of the streets were
completely re-surfaced around this time, paved slabs replacing the then gravel,
while Mediterranean architecture would have encouraged the construction of
arcades and porticos, which offered up protection against adverse weather
conditions. Also within the Forum lavish décor would have welcomed its visitors
including mosaics, and brightly coloured murals.
THE FORUM BATH’S (NUMBER 9 ON THE MAP)
These Roman baths were rediscovered during 1987 when the
construction works for an underground car park beneath the surface of the
Viemarktplatz (Cattle Market Square) began. The baths were opened to visitors
in June 1998 after being excavated by the Rheinisches Landesmuseum of Trier.
As the archaeologists pervaded with their excavations early
Roman, perhaps 1st Century AD, residential building remains were
observed. Stemming from these a Capuchin monastery complex from the 17th/18th
centuries was recorded. The cellar walls of the monastery were partly built
directly on the foundations of the buildings of the Roman baths. Also much of
the monastery was constructed using rubble from the buildings of the Roman
period.
The bath complex would fall out of use during the early part
of the 5th century as Trier suffered the continued wrath of
barbarian invasions and political turmoil. The complex today is housed within a
modern glass cube.
With the abolition of the monastery in 1802, the Cattle Market
Square was established and used as a market place and then became an area for
parking. Perhaps a sad end to the place that was at one time the garden of the
Capuchin monastery.
THE WARM BATH HALL (TEPIDARIUM)
THE AULA PALATINA (BASILIKA) (NUMBER 6 ON THE MAP)
Another massive and imposing structure, now known as the
Basilika, which was reduced to ruins during the 2nd World War, was
investigated by archaeologists, and its present restoration is as accurate as
possible. Its sheer size dominates that area of the city. It is 67m in length
27-5m in width and is at least 33m in height. During their excavations a bronze
coin dated to the year 305 was found. In the distant past the Basilika was part
of a complex of buildings, the layout of which is not yet completely
understood. An early geometric mosaic, marble veneer and five hypocausts were
excavated, one in the apse and four in the main hall of the building. In parts of
the west wall and of the apse some of the original Roman work is still visible.
This prestigious and
illustrious and enormous audience hall would have held the throne of the
Emperor of the time. It would have been extravagantly and elaborately decorated
with a wealth of rich colours and held many ornamented statues.
At present the Basilika is a
Protestant Church of the Redeemer and owned by a congregation within the
Evangelical Church in the Rhineland. During 1986 it became part of a UNESCO World
Heritage site.
Interestingly
the skeleton of this construction is very unusual, for the walls are 2.70 cm
thick and are built of tiles. These were laid in courses which were then
separated by mortar layers. The mortar was nearly as thick as the tiles, and
the amount of tiles required to complete this build would have been colossal.
Trier was protected by a fortified city wall 6.4
kilometres in length protecting an area of 285 hectares. It was seemingly
constructed around 170 AD. The wall was 6.4 metres high with a mortar and
rubble core and faced with sandstone blocks. Apparently defensive towers and
bastions were built at regulated intervals.
The settlements outside the city would also have required
some protective fortifications which included Arlon, Pachten, Sarrbrucken
Neumagen, Bitburg and Junkerath. The layout of their fortifications would have
varied, governed by the local terrain. Some were rectangular, while others were
polygonal or oval. Perhaps these were the efforts of land-owners working in
groups or even as individuals. Some, perhaps, had military associations,
although all had protruding towers built at close intervals.
THE MAIN GATES OF TRIER (NUMBER 1 ON THE MAP)
There are four known city gates which stood at the ends of
two main streets. One led north to south and the other east to west. Porta Alba
the (White Gate) was in the east and the Porta Inclyta (Famous Gate) in the west, which was next
to the Roman bridge across the Moselle. In the south was the Porta Media
(Middle Gate) which was on the line of modern Saarstrasse. And then to the
north was the Porta Nigra.
It has been suggested that perhaps a fifth gate existed at
the amphitheatre. During archaeological
Religion was responsible for changing the fortunes of the
Porta Nigra when on St Andrew’s Day in 1030 the hermit Simeon, at his request,
was shut in the east tower of the ruined building. This Sicilian Byzantine monk
came to Trier during 1027, rather than returning to St Catherine’s monastery,
which was at the foot of Mount Sinai. His intention was to lead a life of
seclusion. After Simeon’s death the Archbishop Poppo succeeded in having Simeon
canonized, and the saint’s tomb became an attraction for pilgrimages. The gate
was converted by Poppo to a double church, and the Church of St Simeon was
dedicated about 1042. Also the Simeonstift
monastery was built next to the Porta Nigra to honour him.
Unfortunately between 1802 and 1804 Napoleon Bonaparte was
responsible for much destruction in Trier. He initially dissolved the church within
the Porta Nigra and the monastery beside it. Many churches and houses of
worship, including the monasteries fell foul of his destructive influence. And the
Porta Nigra was converted back to its original Roman form, although the apse
was retained.
Apparently on the 22nd of July 1817 the Prussian
Crown Prince Friedrich Wilhelm (1V)
entered the city through the Roman gate and consequently the Prussian state
took on the responsibility for its conservation. During the middle ages all the
other stone gates were dismantled and the material used elsewhere. On the Porta
Nigra the iron and lead braces were taken out for reuse. Traces of this
destruction are still visible on the north side of gate. Air pollution, mainly
from the exhaust fumes of passing cars continues to darken its stones.
Today numerous schools visit the Porta Nigra, the students made visible due to the smartness of their school uniforms.
THE AMPHITHEATRE (NUMBER 5 ON THR MAP)
The amphitheatre is situated on the eastern edge of the Roman city, and was integrated into the city wall. It formed the end of a monumental boulevard which began at the Roman Bridge and continued along the Barbara Baths, the Forum and the Imperial Baths. It enclosed an area of approximately of 120 x 140 metres, so this structure is among one of the largest arenas known. The visiting spectators reached the terraces via two main entrances, while participants in the games find their way into the area directly through a gate. Gladiators and any animals wait their turn in chambers in the arena walls or are carried from the cellar into the arena by a lift.
This public
arena of entertainment could seat approximately up to 20,000 spectators. This
amphitheatre is fundamentally an earthwork, as it is sunk partly into the
western slope of the Petrisberg. On the opposite side the earth was heaped up
and then assembled to the required height. The seating was of stone and
consequently was used as a quarry by the Cistercian monks of Himmerod Abbey
during the middle ages. The Abbey was dissolved in October 2017 but was then
retrieved in June 2020. Today the Abbey has a café, an art and book shop, a
plant nursery and a museum. Its fishery remains in operation as it is now
leased out.
Seemingly,
for the present, the amphitheatre is used regularly for various cultural events.
THE ELECTORAL PALACE THE SOUTH FACADE
For many generations the Basilika was the residence for the
Trier Archbishops, until a gentleman by the name Lothar von Metternich
(1599-1623) decided to demolish some Roman structures and replace them with a
monumental building comprising of four wings. Lothar von Metternich was born
into an old German noble family. Apparently he was a very well educated and was
fluent in Flemish, Italian, French and Latin. He oversaw the building of this
massive and significant edifice which would eventually contain some
extraordinary interior architecture. During World War II only two wings of the Renaissance building had
survived, and they were reduced to just fragments. Although after the war, the
flamboyant rococo staircase inside the south wing was restored. The stucco on
the walls of the staircase were added around 1906, as the originals had been
lost.
The exterior of the building is Renaissance architecture.
While inside it regularly hosts classical music concerts and is the home of
various offices of the federal government.
During the early part of the 20th century the
former palace gardens have been open to the public, and features statues
sculpted by Ferdinand Tietz.
THE ROMAN BRIDGE WITH ITS STONE PILLARS
THE HISTORY OF THE
ROMAN BRIDGE, NUMBER 11 ON THE MAP
In the past dredging of the
Mosel, revealed, and embedded in the riverbed, archaeologists stumbled upon
evidence for a bridge across the Mosel between Stadtbredimus and Palzem constructed
during the 2nd century BC. Some of the timbers when examined could be
distinguished from the later Roman Bridge, were felled in 168 and 149 BC. This
bridge gave access from the south and west for traffic bound for the Hunsruck
and the area around the vicinity of Trier.
The Roman Bridge in Trier is the
oldest standing bridge in Germany. The nine bridge pillars date from the 2nd
century AD and replace the two older wooden bridges.
The colonial title to Trier is
possibly attributed to the Emperor Claudius (41-54) AD, with Britain now
part of the Roman Empire a good system of roads between the Rhine frontier and
ports on the English channel were needed.
Perhaps under the Emperor
Hadrian (117-138) AD, there may have been an upgrade of the Provincial
buildings, for apparently many of the streets were re-surfaced about this time.
Also it has been realised, through excavations, that second bridge over the
Mosel replaced the first during the beginning of the 2nd century.
The new bridge had nine piers which now support the modern superstructure. Two
are now embedded in the eastern riverbank. Seemingly all were pointed at the
end which faces up-stream and rounded at the other end. They are solidly built
stone foundations and all rest directly on the excavated bed-rock. Six are
constructed from massive basalt lava blocks. The others are of stone. The whole
structure was bound together by iron clamps set in lead. During recent
excavations an investigation discovered that wooden caissons surrounded the
piers, so to exclude water at the time of their construction. Also some
water-proof clay was recognised.
THE PUBLIC WATER SUPPLY FOR TRIER
In pre roman
times the local inhabitants gathered their water from wells, rivers, streams
and springs. But during the 2nd century they were introduced to
Roman technology by the building of aqueducts. The largest aqueduct was
apparently the one in the Ruwer valley, starting near the main reservoir of
modern Trier. The river Ruwer is a tributary of the Mosel. The aqueduct was
seemingly almost 13km long with a gradient of o.o6%. Its cross-section was
0,74x1,30m. The outer walls were 0.96 – 1.30m high and 0.74-78m wide. The
arched masonry channel was constructed of crushed stone and was plastered with
a watertight lime mortar. This aqueduct is displayed at only a few locations.
No doubt
there were numerous aqueducts that supplied Trier. Isolated observations suggest that there was
one running down the Olewiger valley and others from Mariahof which is above
Heligkreuz. Possibly, the ROMAN CIRCUS (NUMBER
4 ON THE MAP) built for
public entertainment and capable of accommodating many thousands of spectators,
was supplied water via an aqueduct to this hippodrome. This ancient site was
mammoth, about 450 m long and was renovated around 293 AD when the Emperor
Constant Chlorus came to live in Trier.
If the monument was connected to the aqueduct it could have supplied water to
fountains that were perhaps on the spina. Also on private land the springs may
have been utilised by the use of pipes made of terracotta, stone, wood and
lead.
Today there
is nothing to be seen of the circus as houses have now engulfed this ancient
monument.
THE KAISERTHERMEN/IMPERIAL BATHS (NUMBER 7 ON THE MAP)
Figure 2 (with thanks to RHEINLANDPFALZ) orientation map
Houses were demolished, the
ground was levelled and an area 260 by 145 m (825x 480 ft) was got ready,
towards the end of the 3rd century, to accommodate planned
extensions of the imperial residence. Unfortunately these new planned buildings
were never finished.
This prestigious bath complex
was begun shortly before 300AD by Constantius Chlorus but construction ceased
around 316AD with the baths still incomplete. The baths were divided into two parts,
the bath complex and the exercise ground known as the palaestra which measured
160 x 130 meters.
Interestingly in the north- west
corner of the imperial baths some Late la Tene pottery was excavated. Some
pieces may have been decorated with painted floral and animal motifs. Close by
a pit of Claudian date was discovered with stone built cellars belonging to the
later 1st century houses. Apparently one of these had been altered as
its original entrance was walled up and a new one was constructed. But, beside
the blocked entrance four small pots with lids had been buried upside down.
Perhaps this position suggests that they were offerings for the deities of the
underworld, so to appease the spirt of some deceased and much loved member of
the household.
Foundation trenches were
discovered filled with limestone rubble and then dressed with roughly shaped limestone
blocks. Also bonding courses built of tiles were recognised with only 2 or 3
courses of stone between them, and this would have helped strengthen the walls.
Other building materials were fireproof terracotta bricks, granite and marble.
The 3 main rooms, frigidarium,
tepidarium and caldarium were built one behind the other and were all were
linked by vestibules. All these were constructed in a semi- circular fashion
and other rooms would have been dressing rooms and latrines.
CONSTANTINE 1 (AD 306 –AD 337)
In all probability it was during the
reign of this Emperor, who was also known as Constantine the Great, that work was abandon at the Imperial baths. After
Constantine emerged victorious in the civil wars against the emperors Maxentius
and Licinius, he became the sole ruler of the Roman Empire in 324 AD.
Constantine chose Byzantium, later to be recognised as Constantinople which
became the new capital of the Roman Empire. This city had a natural harbour and
was a thriving port and had a prime geographical location between Europe and
Asia. Much grain and silk were traded here. Also it should be remembered that
Constantine became the first Roman emperor to convert to Christianity.
After Constantine stopped
funding the Imperial baths in Trier they fell into disrepair and were
neglected. They were used as part of the city wall then a castle and perhaps a
monastery. Seemingly the external walls of the Imperial baths were plastered in
an indulgent fashion and was a restricted entry, as all of the buildings
connected with the court lie in the area of the town stretching northwards so
to form a palatial enclave.
RECENT ARCHAEOLOGIAL EXCAVATIONS IN TRIER
Surprisingly the excavations of
the Kaiserthermen also known as the Imperial baths, revealed two massive
foundation blocks marking the monumental gate that was planned as an entrance
hall but was never finished. Also noticed were a
number of foundation blocks of Roman concrete.
During 1993 about 2650 gold
coins were excavated, while the earliest coins were minted in 63AD, during the
reign of the emperor Nero. The latest were found with the emperor
Septimius Severus depicted on them about 196 AD. Perhaps they
were buried because of the on- going 196AD civil war.
THE
BARBARHERMEN BATHS (NUMBER 12 0N THE MAP)
During the life-time of these baths they would have been elaborately decorated and a marble torso of an Amazon warrior was discovered. This is now in the Landesmuseum in Mainz. Perhaps it is a copy of a Greek original. Slightly out of sight and in crevices and recesses possibly were more marble sculptures. Perhaps depicting Greek and Roman Gods, like Minerva Goddess of wisdom, Neptune God of fresh water and Poseidon with his awesome trident.
This complex probably went out
of use during the early part of the 5th century when Trier was
sacked by the Franks. The Huns under Attila in 451 AD also sacked the City.
Trier became part of Frankish territory during 485 AD, and its population
decreased drastically during this period of instability.
These baths derives its name
from the local church dedicated to St Barbara. Sadly today only a smallish area
is preserved above foundation level. But in the early part of the 17th
century a small area survived as a home for a noble family. These baths perhaps
were built in the second half of the 2nd century and cover an area of
42 thousand square meters with water supplied from the Ruwer aqueduct. The
Barbarathermen baths water for the thermae was heated in a metal boiler which
was as
high as a house, and the temperature could be controlled by adding cold water.
In the past archaeologists have enthralled me by their discoveries. They include a water tank large enough to be connected to the public water supply. This probably belongs to the middle of the 3rd century and was constructed by using large stone blocks which were smeared inside with a layer of water tight clay. Beneath these were a series of wooden trenches, apparently for the catching unwanted sediment.
THE
CATHEDRAL (NUMBER 2 ON THE MAP)
Trier cathedral, formally the
high Cathedral of St Peter is in the religion of the Roman Catholic and its most
famous relic is the Holy Robe, the tunic of Christ. This robe was last shown in
2012. The skull of Helena, the Mother of the Emperor Constantine is seen in the
east crypt, and her drinking is kept in the cathedral’s treasury. Also there is
a view of the so- called portable altar of Saint Andrew, the twelfth Bishop of
Trier. He was also one of the first apostles of Jesus.
The cathedral has a rich history
spanning around 1700 years. Its roots trace back to the 4th century,
when it was built upon the foundations of a Roman building, which included the
Palace of Saint Helena. The cathedral was the victim of invading armies, the Franks
and the Vikings, but was rebuilt and expanded in each era.
In reality Trier itself was
founded in the late 1st century BC and carried the name Augusta
Treverorum and for 500 years and was the favoured residence of many Roman
emperors. In all probability there was a diminutive Christian community in
Trier during the latter part of the 2nd century, although more evidence
relating to Trier belongs to the next century where it can be checked and
verified. It begins with three named bishops, Eucharius, Maternus and Valerius.
These names are followed by Agricius, the first historically documented bishop
of Trier serving in the 4th century. Apparently he was a priest of
Antioch before being appointed to the See of Trier. He was present at the
council of Arles in 314 and was connected with Helena the mother of
Constantine. The Christian community in Trier was expanding and had reached
dimensions relevant enough for the appointment of a Bishop in the closing years
of the 3rd century. Seemingly heavenly treasures were coming more
important and significant than ever before. The growth of the Christian faith
within Trier was not admired by many of its residents as Congregations still
carried a profound respect and admiration and reverence for non-Christian religions.
Many focused on honouring the divine within nature and celebrating the
interconnectedness of all things. They worshiped numerous gods and goddesses
and held seasonal festivals, rituals and had a deep respect for Mother Earth.
Trier cathedral was dedicated to
Saint Peter and incorporated remnants of a Roman Imperial palace and bath house
including sections of the original walls of the Aula Palatina and the imperial
thermae. This early Christian structure is thought to have been built between
AD 300 and AD310. This lavishly designed residential palace was demolished
around AD335 when the Christian church complex was expanded. Much of the
Cathedral was built of Kordel sandstone which
originated very close to Trier near the town of Kordel. This was very convenient for
rebuilding, as allied bombing raids in December 1944 caused damage to the
cathedral. The cloisters roof and vaults of the healing chapel and the roofs of
the west tower were destroyed. During 1950 the bomb damage to the cathedral was
repaired and the
A MAJOR DISCOVERY
WITH THANKS TO SELBSTVERLAG DES
BISHCHOFLICHEN MUSEUMS TRIER,
FOR THE GROUND PLAN OF THE CATHEDRAL.
Cupids with a censer bowl. Philosopher with a scroll
During the years of 1945/46 and 1967/68 at a depth of over 3 meters an extraordinary discovery was excavated. Many thousands of fragments of a dropped down plaster ceiling were found and recovered. During the first excavation nearly half of the ceiling paintings were recovered and six sections were to be assembled. It was Dr Theodork Kempf who recognized the significance of these finds and during 1967/68 the southern half was excavated and the rest of the of the paintings were discovered.
The puzzle work continued and together with the restorer P. Welter the first 6 paintings were shown to the public in 1951.The ceiling murals are on display in a dedicated room in the Cathedral Museum since 1988 but for conservation purposes the murals are mounted on walls and not the ceiling. In 1993 they can now be seen in the museum. All are presented with the colours of red green and yellow and each offer female and male busts. Some are seen with halos, circles of light, either symbolic or atmospheric but very radiant and luminous. Others contain unique pairs of playful putti, and there are 15 different portraits. It is worth buying the museum hand book as Theodork Kemp gives his own interpretation off the ceiling.
Another area close by and stimulates
our imagination is the Horrea, a warehouse, number 3 on the map. It was
strategically placed to facilitate efficient up loading and storage of goods
arriving by ship on the Moselle river. It is located near the ancient harbour
within the city walls on the north western side. These structures were built
around 333AD and were likely used as granaries and possibly as a military store
house. It may have been two stories high but as yet no trace of a stair case
has been found. The complex featured two large halls 19 meters wide separated
by a12 meters wide courtyard. The walls were reinforced with pilasters and
blind arcades which were a decorative feature.
The building was later used as Benedictine abbey, but is now
one of oldest wine cellars in Germany. It was built using limestone and remnants
of Roman walls and brick flooring are still visible. I recommend a visit to the Rheinisches landesmuseum to view the stunning collection of mosaics, which are all related to Trier.
Woman with a nimbus. Dancing cupids with a bowl.
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